RE: RV vs MH?
"In North American English the term recreational vehicle, and its acronym RV, are generally used to refer to an enclosed piece of equipment dually used as both a vehicle and a temporary travel home. They are also called motor home and motor caravan (or motorhome and motorcaravan)."
"Motorhome A self-propelled, completely self-contained vehicle that contains all the conveniences of a home, including cooking, sleeping, and permanent sanitary facilities and in which the driver? area is accessible in a walking position from the living quarters."
Good luck!
RE: Long Travel and water
I keep a full tank of fresh water because 1: I know the water came from a reliable source (my home) and 2: It add's stability to my ride as the 30 gallon tank is in front of the rear axle and helps balance my weight.
RE: re caulking
If you want to use silicone caulk, go ahead. When your roof starts leaking, dont complain here. Dicor or eternabond are the proven choices. I always use dicor as I have heard that the presence of eternabond in a used rig indicates it is a leaker.
As I stated in my post I only use Geocell on my roof. I use 100% Silicone on my side seams and marker lights. My 1987 RV has NEVER had a leak either on the roof or elsewhere. Dicor is advertised by the manufacturer as a SECONDARY lap sealant.
"Designed for use on horizontal RV roof surfaces, including rubber, TPO, metal, fiberglass, aluminum or wood." They also make a vertical non-sag lap sealant in white.
It appears their product is made with isobutylene compounds, liquid acrylics and polyurethanes although it is hard to tell for sure. I have no problem with Dicor products but they are advertised as Lap Sealants and seem to be more suited for roof applications. I do not use Silicone or Dicor on my roof only Geocel. I think the origonal poster was asking about re-caulking the exterior of their rig not specifically the roof. Eternabond is a micro sealant made to stop an exisiting leak although I have heard of some people using it on their roof seams as a leak preventative. I might be apprehensive as you are, if I saw Eternabond on a roof. The assumption would be that there was a leak at some time that was repaired. Drive safe, have fun.
RE: re caulking
I'm not really sure where the big no-no is with using 100% Silicone Caulk on an RV comes from. Below are three quotes from different sources giving pretty sound reasons why 100% Silicone Caulk should be an excellent product to use on an RV. Having been associated in the plumbing business for some time now I can vouch for the qualities of this product on both fiberglass and gelcoat surfaces. It has great flexibilities and adheres like a glue, it is after all an adhesive too. It is waterproof and actually cures by exposure to moisture. I have used it for sometime now and wouldn't hesitate to use it on my RV, ever. My RV by the way is a 1987 Mallard and has never had a leak inside or out. I have re-caulked the exterior (you must remove ALL old caulk first) with 100% Silicone Caulk and have a great deal of confidence in it's sealing qualities. I have a one piece Aluminum roof and seal the edges with Geocel (http://www.geocelusa.com/php/oic/product.php?prdb_product_id=8&prdb_category_id=32) which I think is a fantastic product. Not looking for a fight with ya MikeMike but I have to respectfully disagree with your opinion. Drive safe, have fun.
"100% silicone: Silicone caulk is great for non-porous substances. It is the best choice for sealing ceramic tile, glass and metal surfaces, but is less appropriate for porous surfaces like wood and masonry. Silicone caulk remains flexible and is impervious to water."
"100% silicone caulking is an incredible performer. It will outlast many standard types of caulking and hold up to any abuse. Typically has the best elongation characteristics and capable of adhering to any surface. Plus, is resistant to all chemicals and can be used immersed in water."
"100% Silicone Caulk works because it is both a strong glue and a flexible sealant, characteristics necessary to seal a joint between dissimilar materials or a joint that has movement. Because it is relatively soft, 100% silicone caulk is the recommendation of many fiberglass enclosure manufacturers."
RE: MPG test results, what works and what doesn't
1987 28' Mallard on a Ford E-350 chassis. Carbureted 460 V-8. I have had as little as 10 mpg average on an 1100+ mile trip that involved quite of bit of up and down travel and as high as 15.8 mpg on a 460+ mile trip that was almost flat terrain. Both times I kept my speed about 58 mph and used my cc when able. I don't tow a toad or anything else and run with full water (30 gal) and full propane. Tires are max @ 80psi. I believe I got just about 8.5 mpg on my first outing with the then "new to me motorhome" as I averaged 65 mph. For me slower is better. Obviously for you that tow or choose to go faster your milage may vary. I have read a ton of posts here that lead me to believe many new motorhomes with modern technology fair no better than the "classic" models as far as mpg. I think much has to do with driving styles, terrain, loaded weight, tire inflation, traffic etc. Drive safe, have fun.
RE: Black water.. How long before you empty it?
I use "Bio-Clean" which is a natural bacteria and enzyme powder that you mix with warm water and add to your holding tanks. http://www.statewidesupply.com/what.html
Shifer.. After looking into this product, I believe I'll give it a try. A local dealer in my town has Bio-Clean so he is going to deliver some tomorrow. It is quite pricey ($45) but they said it should last a year or longer. So we'll see how it works out. Thanks again for the tip on the product.
Patrick
Your welcome. Yes it is a bit pricey but your dealer is correct, it will last you at least a year depending on how often you use it. I add some per directions after each dump and my original container is on it's 2nd year. I also pour some into my sink and shower traps to keep them clean and free of hair, soap and any food particles. It is quite an amazing product and will even totally clean all the gunk out of old household galvanized pipes if used as directed. I have a mirror with an extension on it to inspect my black tank and after using this product it is clean as a whistle. I have no affiliation with the company or Bio-Clean but I am very happy with the results.
RE: Black water.. How long before you empty it?
I use "Bio-Clean" which is a natural bacteria and enzyme powder that you mix with warm water and add to your holding tanks. It turns EVERYTHING to liquid and will clean your entire tank as it "eats" it's way through anything stuck to the bottom or sides. I get it from a local plumber. Read about it here,
http://www.statewidesupply.com/what.html
RE: Recommendation on replacing flooring
I am not sure that this is necessarily a question limited to "class c" RVs, but figured I would start here.
I have a 1995 Class C Gulfstream Yellowstone (29 feet, no slides). I needs new carpet badly. Am thinking either recarpet or laminate flooring (wife prefers the latter). Spoke with one or two dealerships, and their service departments are guestimating $2000. Seems steep, and am wondering I couldn't get it done cheaper by not going to a dealership.
I live in Orlando. Can anyone recommend someplace/someone I could hire to do this job - - - I am far from handy with tools and such :-) - - - or is my best best to go with a dealership?
Thanks!
Two grand! Fly me to Orlando, I'll stay in your Gulfstream for 2 days. Day one, after I get to Orlando I'll tear out all the old flooring and prep the floor for new material. After a couple of hours on the beach and maybe a six pack of ice cold beers I'll be ready for a few Stone Crab claws and a good night sleep. Day two I'll install your new Laminate floor (you provide the materials) after that it will be another couple hours at the beach and a few more beers and maybe a dozen more Stone Crab claws. A good night sleep and I'll be back on a plane for New York on the morning of day 3, with a nice base tan and a fond memory of the food of my youth. You on the other hand will have a nice new floor....
RE: Considering a Class C that needs some love
Not sure if the vehicle has 12,500 miles or 125k miles and was a typo, either way there is inherent problems with both with a vehicle that is almost 20 years old.
RV's need a lot of tweaking even when it's new, so to get something that already is a basket case is a huge mistake. A lot of people go into things thinking, I' handy, I like tinkering, I can save a lot of money.
Tinkeringgets old quick. Having an RV isn't about always being "under the hood" like a car buff, it's about being in it and enjoying it, not tinkering with it.
My advice spend a little more for a turn key vehicle that you can enjoy the next day.
Also taking a nearly 20 year old vehicle on a long trip is suicide at best. Remember you're going down the road with many thousands of pounds of HOUSE, and a high rate of speed. Under normal conditions this seems impossible, under less than optimum conditions you're jeopardizing your life and the life of your family....what price do you out on that.
Don't be penny wise and pound foolish. Move on for a more road worth vehicle, they are selling them at fire sale price. I saw a 2006 Class C with 20k miles, for 18K. Than one you can fill up with fuel and drive away.
I own a 1987 Mallard on an E-350 Ford chassis. It runs like a champ and is solid and dry in and out. Other than adding some minor upgrades like Maxx Air covers, new mirrors, synthetics in the engine and rear end, it has been almost flawless. I average 10 miles per gallon with the stock 460 V8. When I bought it I pulled the carb and sent it to a local pro to see if it needed a rebuild or any work. He laughed at me and told me to put it back on and leave it alone, it was perfect. I had assumed it would need work even though the engine purrs. I also took the entire rig to my mechanic and when he finished his inspection he offered to buy it on the spot. It had 47000 miles on it and he said it will go another 20 years if I take care of it. I guess my point is, I have driven it over 1100 miles on some trips and neither fear for my safety or anyone else that rides with me. It is solid as a new rig, in fact after surfing this forum for some time I realize I have no where near the issues as many of the new or newer Class C motorhomes. I personally feel if you think you can handle the repairs and if that price is in the realm of what you can afford, go for it. I have not found the "inherent problems" that Kendall69 alludes to on my 21 year old motorhome and I'm not suicidal in the least. Good luck and have fun!
First long trip of the year.
The DW and I just returned from our first long trip of the year. Upstate NY to Maryland and a stop over in Gettysburg on the way home. I don't pull a toad so the trip came out to 1102 miles total with going here and there. The cheapest gas was $3.69.9 a gallon in Maryland. Most expensive was #3.79.9 a gallon in Pa. I gassed up before I crossed back into NY where I knew the prices would be even higher. I averaged 10 miles per gallon snd used 110 gallons of gas for the trip at a toal cost of $410.00 dollars. It was a great trip and my 1987 Mallard on a Ford E-350 chassis performed flawlessly. It's a bit of a "sticker shock" to fill up a 40 gallon tank all at once so I tried to fuel up when it was around a half tank. I suppose that makes it easier to take lol. Anyway, had a great time on our first longer trek of the year. We will be returning to Pa. later this year to visit Falling Water, the house that was designed by American architect Frank Lloyd Wright in 1935. Hope you all have a great summer.
1st. Longer Trip of the year
Well, just returned from our first long trop of the year. Upstate NY to Maryland. Don't tow a toad so I actually drove 1100 miles in the rig. It was a great trip and the old girl performed perfect. We were able to visit Gettysburg again and see the new visitors center. Very nice. Totaled up my milage and gallons of gas used and found I had averaged 10 miles per gallon. Cheapest gas I found was $361.9 per gallon in Maryland and $3.79 per gallon elsewear. Gas prices suck but, if thr big oil companies were charging 6$ a gallon what could we do? Gettysburg was a return trip and we enjoyed our stay very
much. We had a great time and afterall, what more could you ask for....
RE: Post Your Rig Pics Here
http://i26.tinypic.com/mj45ms.jpg
Ok, I'll give this upload a try! 1987 Ford E-350 chassis, 28' Mallard coach. Everything functions perfectly and with 47,000 miles should last a nice long time. Had been given a fine tooth inspection by my mechanic last year when I bought it. He wanted to buy it from me after his inspection! never had a leak either inside or out. I have done some updates as far as shocks, tune-up, carb service, and numerous little upgrades to get it where I want it but, for under 4k how could I go wrong? I leave for Maryland next week from Upstate NY and wouldnt hesitate to take it anywhere. Averaging about 10mpg which seems to be in line for size and weight. C'ya on the beach!
RE: Wasp
This common problem can be minimized by rubbing the area liberally with bar soap - ordinary soap like Ivory soap will do. One application can last through an annual wasp season.
